1) Have a holiday and fun adventure: cycling, mountain hiking and copious amounts of apfel strudel eating are on the list.
2) Go wine tasting in Austria, bring back a van load of wine and try not to drink it before the wedding!
3) Catch up with friends and family on the way
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Day 1
We left London bright and early to catch the 8am ferry from Dover to Dunkirk with DFDS, which seems to be one of the more reasonably priced ferry companies (they are also pretty flexible for changing tickets at the last minute which is good). We decided to head through Belgium and Luxembourg towards Germany rather than through France to avoid the expensive toll roads. We stopped for lunch in a little town called Rochefort in Belgium, which is in the Ardennes and very pretty. Stocking up in the local supermarket on wonderfully smelly local cheeses and meats, we had a delicious picnic by the river.
Continuing south, we drove towards Mannheim, arriving around 9pm in Bad Durkheim, where we had agreed to meet a friend. To our delight, we discovered it was the last night of the Bad Durkheim Wurstmarkt, which although it translates as ‘sausage market’ it is actually the largest wine festival in the world. A bit like Oktoberfest, there are many stalls selling delicious local delicacies, fairground rides and of course, tents dedicated to the delicious wine products of local wine growers. People have been growing wine in Bad Durkheim for over 600 years, so there is a great sense of pride and history in the wine. The town is located on the most beautiful part along the “Weinstrasse”, Rhineland-Palatinate and is a stunning location. As it was the last night, we enjoyed some beautiful fireworks and ate lots of spätzle, which is a delicious kind of pasta. As we had arrived late and not been able to find a campsite, we drove down a track where other people were parked. On returning to the van, we were the only ones left, so we just decided to sleep there and woke up the next morning with a gorgeous view of the vines! Free camping night number 1!
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Day 2:
We drove towards Neustadt as the famous wine route runs through this town, parked the van and cycled into town. We had a great cappuccino in the sunshine, then headed off on a 16km route up a big hill, then through lots of vines. The wine route goes on for miles and it is possible to cycle along it for days. As we had to get going to Austria, we only did a small section of it (and did not try any wine as we were driving) but it makes a gorgeous bike ride. The paths are all clearly signposted and away from the main roads, so it is really safe as well. We stopped for a welcome orange juice at a restaurant in Maikanner, which only served produce hunted and sourced locally, such as venison, rabbit and wild boar. We bought some delicious smoked wild boar meat to add to our picnic box.



Back on the road, we cruised towards Munich, arriving late afternoon. We parked the van and very happily had a shower at Mark’s sister’s house. Then, off to Oktoberfest, where we drank beer in litre glasses, wandered around all of the fun stalls and of course, danced on some tables, well ‘stomped’ would be a more accurate description to the brilliant German bier fest tunes. There are also some very fun fairground rides at the Fest, one in particular springs to mind, which involves ‘merry’ people trying to walk up a very fast moving travelator. Let’s say one out of 5 managed to stay on their feet in the ‘surf position’ with the rest going head or feet first after a comical, cartoon style flailing arm spectacular tumble! It provided us with people watching giggles for at least 30 minutes and of course, we contributed to fellow watchers’ entertainment.
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Day 3
We cycled around Munich in the morning, then hopped into the camper van and drove over the border to Austria.
The road towards Salzburg is very beautiful with the mountains getting bigger as you drive further. From Salzburg we headed south towards Bad Hofgastein, which is an Alpine resort famous for its hot springs and of course summer/winter outdoor activities.

On arrival, we drove around the top most resort called Bad Gastein, which is unlike any ski resort I have ever seen. You can really tell that it was built in the era of Imperial Austria, with many grand buildings built into the rocks.
It is a very dramatic village, with cliffs running down both sides of the steep valley and an extremely powerful waterfall rushing through the middle. You can really imagine high society visiting this area in times past for the hot springs and skiing – the place definitely has a historical and regal atmosphere in the air.
We found a campsite in Bad Gastein which is next to the Golf course. It was about 20 Euros per night, which was worth it for the hot shower and view when we woke up to have breakfast – wow, what a treat.
Apparently there had been a big snow storm 3 days earlier but when we arrived it was around 25 degrees Celsius, giving that perfect alpine feel of beautiful snow everywhere but you still feel warm! We got on our bikes again and cycled down the valley towards Bad Hofgastein. The place really is exceptionally beautiful, with lovely traditional chalets, where the owners take great care in tending to the colourful geraniums all summer. There is a gorgeous river running through the valley, with the cycle/footpath following it all the way down. There is also a swimming lake, lovely restaurants (we sat in the sun for a traditional mountain lunch of knodel soup, local game and of course, some sachertorte). In the evening we went to the Alpentherme (hot springs) in Bad Hofgastein (there are more hot springs in Bad Gastein). It is quite expensive to get in at 22 euros for 3 hours per adult, but it is absolutely worth the money. There are numerous hot pools both indoor and out with a couple of fun slides for kids. The sauna section really comes into its own, with around 10+ different style saunas, all huge and exceptionally clean with great lighting. This area is adult only and not for the prudish…naked only and communal – this includes the outdoor hot pool. There is something exceptionally liberating about floating around in a steaming hot pool outside with the cold alpine air around your head and the mountains in the background. You can also try about 6 different kinds of mineral water, which come from the local rocks.
Feeling blissfully clean and relaxed, we cooked up a storm in the van and I beat Mark at cards again.
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Day 4
We got up early and drove up the hill into the national park, where we parked the van ready for a morning hike.
As we were a bit higher, there was still snow on the ground everywhere and it all looked stunning. After about 1.5 hours of climbing, we reached a beautiful mountain lake with an alpine chalet where we managed to get a very welcome cappuccino. We also made an executive decision that the best hiking snacks are Mannerschnitten, which are wafers filled with a nutella-like goo.After another picnic lunch, we drove towards Vienna, specifically to Göttlesbrunn, which is one of the many famous wine towns along the Danube, and had been recommended to us for our wedding wine. Arriving in the dark, we could not find anywhere to camp, so as we were starving, we just parked beside the road next to a restaurant that looked open to get some food. I initially regretted walking into the place as we were pretty grubby and very scruffy and it appeared to be some Michelin starred or equivalent restaurant where everyone turned to look at us and you could hear a pin drop. Before we had time to turn back, the waiter was already showing us to our seats, so we thought we would just get on with it! As it turns out, you should never judge a book by its cover…yes it was an upmarket place, but the staff were exceptionally friendly and even told us where we could get free camping, down by the Sportsplatz. We had a delicious 3 course meal, had an introduction to the local wine and Mark only managed to knock the expensive picture on the wall next to us off its hook once.
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Day 5
The next morning, we got up early and walked around Göttlesbrunn to start our wine tasting. We visited Payr, Edelmann, Oppelmeier, Markovitsch and Pitnauer and Grassl. We were very interested in grapes specific to Austria such as Zweigelt and Welschriesling. We had a fun and educational day, with all of the wine makers being exceptionally friendly. Each vineyard only produces small quantities each year, making each wine taste very unique. We managed to shortlist our favourites down to 5, for re-sampling at a later date. We had such a fun day going around and meeting each wine maker – definitely a good memory which will hopefully be relived when we have the wine on our wedding day.
We spent the evening chilling out by our van near the Sportsplatz, cooking spaghetti bolognaise and playing more cards. We had a great view of the planes landing over the wind turbines at Vienna airport, which sounds a bit geeky but it looked really cool.-
Day 6
The next morning we drove down to Neusiedler See, which is on the Austrian/Hungarian border. It is a huge lake (around 100km to cycle around) full of people swimming, sailing, kite surfing and sun bathing. The weather was beautiful so we went for a great bike ride and enjoy soaking up the late summer sun with a delicious schnitzel lunch. The campsite (Podersdorf) was perfectly located next to the lake and seemed very family orientated.
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Day 7
We drove back towards Göttlesbrunn to retry the wines on our shortlist to check that we had not been crazy. My German is a bit hit and miss anyway, therefore, the explanations given to us a few days earlier from the wine makers, combined with the number of vineyard visits meant retrying the wine was essential to ensure our guests would not drink any old plonk. Satisfied, we bought up wine from 3 different places and filled up the van – it was definitely the party van now! Again, the wine makers were exceptionally friendly, especially at Payr, where we got a guided tour of their cellars, as well as Sturm (which is the fermenting grape juice) straight out of the large stainless steel barrels – it was still warm from the fermenting process and absolutely scrumptious.
We headed towards Vienna, via Carnuntum, which is famous for its Roman ruins. Sadly we only had time to have a quick walk around and pop our heads over the walls of the ruins as we had to be in Vienna to collect something, but we could see how impressive and well preserved it all was and it went straight to the top of the list for a revisit. We drove into the centre of Vienna to pick up a table, had a quick bit of lunch by the river, then headed back towards Salzburg, stopping in St.Wolfgang.
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Day 8
Having been to St. Wolfgang as a child, I was very keen to go back. It was every bit as beautiful as I had remembered, with a gorgeous lake, surrounded by mountains. The town itself is very touristy, with lots of alpine shops and bus loads of visitors but people come here for a reason. The lake is crystal clear and perfect for swimming.
In the afternoon, we drove back north through Germany with a decidedly heavier load with our end destination being Heidelberg. We found a lovely campsite by the river for 20 euros a night.
Day 9
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We were on our bikes again and cycled the 4km or so along the river to the centre of the city. Heidelberg is famous for its old university and the place certainly has lots of atmosphere. It reminded me a bit a going to university in Durham, with the castle, river and old town – there were even rowers shooting up and down on the river. The difference is the fact it is in Germany, a lot warmer and surrounded by green hills. We ploughed up the hill on our bikes to the castle (there is a train if you are feeling less energetic) which is worth it for the view over the city. The shopping streets are fun – there is a crazy Christmas shop which seems to be open all year round and it a never ending grotto of every colour bauble and tree decoration you can possibly imagine – if you are having a ‘frog themed yellow and purple Christmas’ you can find everything you need in here. As a big fan of Christmas, I was rather excited to get lost in this kitsch cave of sparkle and tradition, but for Mark, the ice cream shop outside was much more appealing and better for his sanity.
After another picnic in the van by the river, we jumped back in the camper van and drove north towards Dunkirk, stopping off for a welcome meal and shower at Mark’s brother’s house in Antwerp. We continued to Dunkirk, where we slept down a quiet lane until our early ferry…the convenience of having a camper van!
What a fun trip – very fast paced, but we have seen so much and achieved all of our objectives. We just have to try not to drink the wine before the wedding now! We are already planning our next trip…






















Marsden is a village in the Pennine hills in West Yorkshire, at the northern edge of the Peak District National Park.
Angel of the North – this brilliant structure towers over Newcastle, giving a sneak preview into the culturally rich capital of Northern England
Hexham – we stopped here to have a look round this gorgeous little medieval town – as with most of the towns in Northumberland, it is surrounded by greenery, gorgeous rolling hills and medieval buildings. We managed to find a lovely little Indian restaurant which had giant sized champagne flutes (the same height as me) to line our stomachs before the evening frivolity began.
Left – proving it is possible to get ready for a wedding in a camper van!
The campsite we stayed in was called Populars Riverside & as it says on the tin, was right next to the river, where you could try your hand at trout and salmon fishing for free. We quickly got ready and got a taxi the mile down the road to Langley Castle.